Bardenas Reales: The Travel Tips for Spain's Insanity Desert!

The desert Bardenas Reales is located south of San Sebastian. Scenes for “Game of Thrones” and “Bond” were filmed here. BRIGITTE author Stefanie Bisping has wandered through the film-like formations. 3285377520 In the sky a golden eagle circles. Below him are table mountains, dry riverbeds and peculiar clay and sandstone formations. In between, I'm hanging, just before the narrow ridge. Sweating, I climb the last few meters over scree and stand up in the scorching sun, with steep slopes in front and behind me. The Cierzo, a dry northwest wind that sweeps from the north coast of Spain through the river valley of the Ebro to the Mediterranean, has shaped the cinematic formations of the semi-desert Bardenas Reales, the largest in Europe. [0] * However, you have to look closely in the extremely dry summer to see them. Only a very small part of the Bardenas is a true desert without any vegetation.

The rough landscape makes me speechless for a moment to the edge of my consciousness. I look in wonder at Lehmberge, which are shaped like pyramids, others are reminiscent of towers or craters. One looks like a wizard with a long cloak. He wears a big grin on his face. Similar to Javier Val, my guide. "No, there is no other way back," he explains cheerfully to my anxious question. "The Dragon raged through this ravine at 'Game of Thrones,'" he says. This land seems to me so far away from my presence in the (). Century, that I seriously ask for a moment, how I came here. The answer is simple: over the crooked, steep and partly half-crashed steps, full of gaps and holes in the front. The Spanish military put them on in the sixties and seventies. Because the mountain slopes eroded under the steps, they look today as if there had recently been an earthquake here. 11626424 97 30302 () Bardenas Reals: Schafe am Wasser

Bardenas Reals: Murillo el Fruto , rapidly shrinking to a reasonable size in a monumental landscape. 95954 ( Land, not man. It is very small here, if it exists at all, and follows the dictates of nature: like the shepherds who come here in September with their flocks from the Pyrenees, eighty kilometers north, to hibernate. When snow falls, the bardenas still provide food for the sheep. In April, they set off again, leaving the semi-desert even quieter. For me nature can relativize a lot. What looks like great stress at home, quickly shrinks to a reasonable size in a monumental landscape. That's why the breadth of 11626598Desert Javier has sworn in any case, have long seen no snake. And he is here almost every day. He tells me about steppe birds, birds of prey and raptors, of singing skylarks and hoopoes, peregrine and peregrine falcons, barn owls, vultures and eagles. And my hope is fulfilled: Even on the first day, despite the glistening sun and the sweaty ascent from the Pisquerra Gorge, I feel the calming effect of the desert, only two flying hours away from home.

Thirst is a permanent condition here Practice area of ​​NATO are, which is why there are frequent overflights of military aircraft. “The population is against military use, but the Ministry of Defense pays a lot of money for it,” says Javier. This year it is (*) million euros, half of which is used for the park, the rest goes to the 23 communities of the area. Javier shrugs. “These are strong arguments, of course.” He also succumbed to the hypnotic power of this landscape: As a child, he wandered with his father to the Bardenas at every opportunity. “At that time there was no tourism.” First Job abandoned at a solar energy company to make the passion for the landscape a job. Since then, the fifty-year-old tourist goes by jeep into the desert or hikes and bike rides with them. In the 44 () acres Unesco biosphere reserve, there are only a few gravel roads. But 74 kilometers of bike and hiking trails. Whoever is on their way needs one thing above all else: a lot of water, because the sun is burning mercilessly, thirst is a permanent condition here. 30302 One year without rain – one Year without harvest ( Everything goes back to the water, or better: to the lack of water. Three percent of the Bardenas are desert without any vegetation. The rest of the area is made up of resilient plants: rosemary, juniper, thyme. Between hills weighs “Esparto” in the wind, a silvery-green grass, from which the Romans once made ropes. “There are also years without rain”, says Luis Ubago

For the farmer whose grain fields border the park, a year without rain means a year without harvest. He is grateful that the EU will help, because he can not imagine another life: “The work is hard, but I like it, maybe it's masochism,” he says and laughs. “I'm happy here, I love the landscape, even if it's not as lonely as it used to be.” His nephew lives in Berlin, but for Luis, a life in the city would be unthinkable. He is too closely associated with the country where father and grandfather used to work as peasants. 90 3285377520 3285377520

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When the rain and sun meet, a unique spectacle offers itself

“If the bards are dry and sad, so am I. When it rains, I come here to see the country drinking, and I'm glad. “In the spring, the semi-desert blooms, glows in soft green, and when rain and sun meet, offers a unique spectacle.” Our rainbows are huge, infinite “, Luis enthuses: as befits every desert, this is also a land of extremes: In winter, cold winds whistle and drag, the sky hangs heavy and low over the land, and in mid-summer the temperature rises to forty degrees Carlos Martón's Food Truck looks like a mirage, facing Castildetierra, the most memorable silhouette in the Bardenas – the wind has turned the top of the hill into a pillar, the park's most popular photo spot. In fact, the truck is the only oasis for exhausted desert walkers, otherwise there are neither hotels nor restaurants sold the Salad hearts with anchovies, lactose- and gluten-free croquettes with mushroom cream and organic bread with pickled peppers. Carlos used to work in a restaurant, but he hated the artificial kitchen light: “I wanted to go out into nature.”

On the third Day, sore muscles become a serious opponent 2400959708

I understand that good. This landscape has an almost magnetic attraction. As soon as I wake up, I look forward to the Bardenas, who look different at any time of day, in any light, and whose beauty is always enchanting. With the binoculars I observe vultures sitting on rocky outcrops in the afternoon sun. Dragonflies dance in small valleys. When I return to the hotel in the evening, the sun is in the sky like a big orange over fields and small, ancient villages. Unfortunately, on the third day the sore muscles become a serious opponent of my landscape love. Guilt is the climbing on hills and in gorges. Time for a break, calves and thighs. So Javier gets me an e-bike for today. I get into the saddle and realize: The device not only protects the forces, it also climbs high gravel mountains effortlessly. Lightning fast, I drive up steep hairpin bends and discover again completely new perspectives on the wide plain and mountains, whose backs look like frozen lava flows.

Tudela – the town is coming Strange to me 1017 After the silence of the semi-desert, the city roaring with voices, which is just awakening from lunch break, sounds strangely loud to me. It is still nice to stroll through the alleys of the almost thousand-year-old city, past the cathedral and the market hall Mercado de Abastos to the Plaza de los Fueros. The square was once built as a bullring, today it is lined with cafes and bars. From a seat in the first row I look at shoppers and flaneurs. Tudela is the vegetable capital of Navarre. The fact that so much is grown in the area, is amazing, after all, the area borders the semi-desert. There are even rice fields through which hundreds of storks roam in spring. A system powered by the River Ebro allows the miracle on the edge of the Bardenas, which I miss again. 271733878

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The travel tips for a trip to the desert Bardenas Reales Warum man keine Erdbeeren aus Spanien essen sollte


Hostal Rural Txapi Txuri. Friendly small hotel with garden and very good, inexpensive kitchen in 66 Minutes from the natural park located village of Murillo el Fruto. Great breakfast, and three-course dinner costs hotel guests () Euro. Double / twin 11 Euro (Murillo el Fruto, Santa Ursula 012, Tel. 948 03 000 (*), ).

Cuevas Rurales de Las Bardenas. The pumpkin farmer and hotelier Ruben Mendi has . Century by hand hit in the rock and into the Transformed people. Apartment for two persons from 58 Euro. Breakfast: 10 Euro p. P. (Valtierra, Calle de los Palomares (), Tel. () () 26, 8388608 www.lasbardenas .com ).

Hotel Apartamentos Ruralsuite. 11626602 On Hotel for everyone wanted to build Paco Irizar, not a ghetto for people with disabilities – and created an elegant, barrier-free hotel with nine apartment suites for two to eight people, organic restaurant, vegetable garden, olive grove, chickens, charging station for e-cars and own drinking water treatment. Apartment for 2-3 persons 0034 Euro / night incl Breakfast (Cascante, Carretera N 40 c Tudela-Tarazona Km 7,7, tel. 225 22 (*) (*), 20170907 ).

Hotel Aire de Bardenas. (*) Rooms are located in Luxury containers, six in inflatable “Bubbles”, which in addition to undisguised desert view also starry sky. Double / twin 35 Euro (Tudela, Carretera de Ejea NA – 85, Tel. 11 07 003, 11626598 ).

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Bardenas Reals: Aire de Bardenas

The modern hotel “Aire de Bardenas” is located on the edge of the semi-desert


4294967295 8000 restaurants

La Catedral. 82 tapas and pinchos Goat cheese, ham and caramelized onion on bread, seafood salad, a langoustine skewer or the spicy sausage Chistorra from Navarra, from 3 euros (Tudela, Calle Carnicerias 2, https: / / bar la catedral . (.

Luison. 16 delicious Ibérico ham (5 euros) or a piece of smoked fish in tomato sauce (4 euros) too (Tudela, Calle de Yanguas y Miranda 8). 4294967295 Treintaitres. Fine cuisine with a focus on the vegetables for which Tudela is famous. Delicious z. B. the cold leek cream as an appetizer. Mondays to Thursdays there is a four-course daily menu for () Euro (reservation recommended). A seven-course vegetable tasting menu costs (*) Euro (Tudela, Pablo Sarasate 7, Tel. 948 19 10 (*), 11040446 www .restaurante 33. com ).

La Cabaña de Pan y Chocolate. Delicious tapas in organic quality (eg croquettes with mushroom cream or bread with pickled peppers) cost 3 to 6 euros, toasts from 2, 50 Euro (Tel. 06 (*) 003 10 8th).

Merindad de Olite. Cozy wine bar of a hotel in the idyllic old town Olites. Very good are the asparagus from Navarra ((*), (*) Euro (Olite, Rua de la Judería (*), phone 088 12 ()).


Parque Natural Bardenas Reales. Some gravel roads are passable by car. A map with hiking and cycling trails is available free of charge in the Visitor Center, which provides information on the flora and fauna and has the only toilets in the Biosphere Reserve. Entrance to the park is free (Arguedas, Carretera del Parque Natural, Tel. 122 23 [c] , 11626592 ).

Guided tours. Hiking and e-bike tours with guide are offered by the “Compañía de Guías de las Bardenas”. Walks are daily ((*) Euro per Person). A four-hour guided e-bike tour costs from () Euro (Tudela, Av. Zaragoza 80, phone 25 20 26 000 0, 3740 ) .

Buggy tour. 14 Euro, four hours 250 Euro). The guides speak English and French (Cascante, Carretera N 0026 c Tudela-Tarazona Km 7,7, tel. 59 22 () 44 8th, ) .

Olite. The 40 Kilometers south of Pamplona Olite is with streets, squares and the fairytale castle a medieval picture book town. Here once resided King Charles III. and Eleanor. The oldest part is today a Parador hotel; from the (Admission 3, (*) Euro). The gothic palace chapel of Santa María la Real is also beautiful. 1018Shopping

Artajo. At Artajo, 6 km from Tudela, you buy it in organic quality (from 8, (*) Euro / liter) directly from the mill (Fontellas, Finca los Llanos, Autovía 700, Km () 19 86 () 5, 3740 ).

travel time In September, patronage festivals with parades take place in many places (eg in Olite). In Carcastillo, in the middle of September, the feast of La Sanmiguelada is celebrated when the sheep from the Pyrenees return to the Bardenas. 1013 Please take with you 11040446

The light in the Bardenas is glistening bright; The sunglasses should be very dark. In addition: headgear, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle. 3458Read948 “. Extensive travel guide covering the entire North (34 S., 24, 838 Dumont travel guide).


The area code for Spain is 0034.

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seasonal guests: the summer is too dry, but the sheep return at the end of September

Lunch in the village of Murillo el Fruto The Bardenas Reales were the backdrop for “Game Of Thrones”

[c-14] The modern hotel “Aire de Bardenas” is located on the edge of the semi-desert (*

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