30 favorite places in South Tyrol: wellness and action, dumplings and carpaccio, farm and design hotel: BRIGITTE editor Anja Haegele knows the best addresses and most beautiful places.
Already as a child I was in South Tyrol every summer
As a child I went to South Tyrol every year for holidays with my parents. Hiking, always in the autumn, always to the village Tyrol near Meran . Hirzer, Spronser Lakes, Waalwege … Every year the same tours, and I confess: I hated it.
As a young adult I made a pit stop there after a long abstinence, I was on the way to the Adriatic. And I fell in love with shock. Since then, I have traveled with my children as often as I can to Bolzano or Brunico, to Alta Badia or Val Venosta, to see how South Tyrol is changing, how modern it has become – without abandoning its traditional character.
Nowhere else do I find so much of each other so close together: glaciers and palm trees, pioneering architecture and rural idyll, dumplings and haute cuisine, delicious wine anyway. Here I tell my favorite places:
Hotels in South Tyrol: Fantastic sleep
As a travel editor, I’ve seen many great hotels around the world, but here I was really amazed. For families, the resort south of the Brenner Pass is a paradise: modern, really beautiful design with lots of wood and rich colors, and yet totally practical – from the family cuddly or children’s bunk beds to the huge closets. The food is exquisite, in the swimming pool there are two mega-slides, a private lake with raft attracts the offspring but also outdoors. The care is well organized, and in addition to table tennis, play barn and a sports hall for the adults also includes a mud podge space (yes, with sand and water pumps!) And plastic clothes to borrow for the little ones and a beautiful painting studio to the resort. And what do the parents do while they know how to take care of the kids? For example, go to the gorgeous spa. Or drink coffee on the terrace and admire the mighty mountains all around. DZ / VP for use with two children from 395 euros (Brenner, Pflersch 185, Tel. 04 72/77 01 26, www.feuerstein.info ).
Rarely have I spontaneously felt as comfortable as with Kathrin and Helmuth Mayr in Bruneck! From a 700-year-old building, which in its history has been a farm, inn and self-catering school for school classes, the two made a magical B & B. With a mix of ancient furniture, modern art, designer pieces and many small, loving details – from the bathroom tiles to the light switches. My highlights are the bedside lamps from old milk jugs and the self-service bar from an old linen closet. There are eight suites, named after the family’s parcels, and a cozy lounge in the attic. DZ / F from 152 Euro. (Bruneck, Herzog-Diet-Straße 1, Tel. 348/247 67 61, www.nmhof.it ).
I really wanted to keep this address for myself. The Oberrauch family has only one holiday home – and you have to reserve that a long time in advance. We have been there four times with the children and have already booked for next summer, so I jump over my shadow and tell you my favorite place in all of South Tyrol: The Hollywood swing on the “Telfnerhof” with views over the Eisacktal on the Schlern massif. Moreover, Martha is the most cordial and generous hostess imaginable (fresh elderflower syrup every day, more fresh milk than you can drink, you can serve yourself in the cottage garden …), and the kids will love it Sepp in the barn or with all this to hand, what to do on a farm like this. The building biology wooden holiday home is modern simple, but very cozy. We will definitely stay in Verdings, at 1000 meters above sea level. And maybe next time you will give me the handle in your hand. Holiday house from 100 Euro / night (Verdings 1, Tel. 04 72/54 51 50, www.telfnerhof.it or via www.roterhahn.it )
Holidays on the farm are very easy to book in South Tyrol – all farms that offer accommodation have organized themselves in the “Red Rooster”; online or in the catalog you’ll find the right one for every taste and taste. For example, the Praitladhof in Lana, south of Merano. Family Gruber operates next to their fruit growing three chic apartments, two of the sons, who are practical carpenter and carpenter, mostly built themselves. Lots of wood, soft colors, and in the morning Farmer Barbara lovingly serves breakfast in the guest room. While the children are busy caressing rabbits, feeding guinea pigs or playing badminton, I sit on the terrace, look over flowerbeds and apple trees and recover well. Apartment from 80 Euro / night (Lana, Kirchweg 38a, Tel. 04 73/56 42 68, www.praitladhof.it or via www.roterhahn.it ).
5. Gasthof zum Riesen
There are nine rooms in the “Giant”, none resembles the other. The furniture in it is decades old, if not centuries old and simply combined with pale white linen, lots of wood and old-fashioned wallpaper. The house, dating back to the 16th century, has been mostly run by women in its history, currently it is Alexandra Dell’Agnolo who has carefully restored it with the help of her architect’s sister: a place of the past, in a village far away from the tourist crowds – perfect for unwinding. DZ / F from 140 Euro (Tarsch in Vinschgau, Karpoforusweg 1, Tel. 04 73/72 00 81, www.zumriesen.it ).
6. Residence Finch
Guests should feel at home in the twelve apartments of the Bolzano Residence – which is quite difficult: who lives at home so centrally in one of the most picturesque old towns in Europe and still with a view of the rose garden, which glows in the evening light? In simple but elegantly designed apartments, with lots of light, lots of white, lots of wood, beautiful wooden floors, old wooden ceilings – and plenty of space. In one of the apartments actually up to 8 people are accommodated! Double room from 110 Euro, for breakfast (15 Euro per person) goes, if you want, just to the ground floor in the “Gasthaus Fink” (Bolzano, Mustergasse 9, Tel. 04 71/09 50 91, www.residence-fink.it ).
7. Hotel Pfösl
Word of honor: Better than from the terrace of the “Pfösl” you can not observe the alpenglow! Latemar, Rosengarten and Schlern spread like a panoramic screen directly opposite, only a house, decoratively located between fir trees, is for those who want to photograph in the picture. The sisters Brigitte and Eva Zelger, who run the hotel near Deutschnofen, south of Meran, therefore only smile understandingly when the guests drop the cutlery at dinner and run out. Her bright red home theater is just too fascinating. Where the “Pfösl” itself is hardly less spectacular: With lots of wood and a coherent concept, the inn of the parents was transformed into a fine nature hotel, where there is at the bar instead of “Aperol” or coke, ecological substitute. The infinity pool (with Latemar view) is for me the most beautiful of the Alps, the breakfast with many surprising and fine products a little sensation, and with the activity program, which offers daily walks, bike rides or cooking classes, nobody gets bored. DZ / VP from 278 Euro (Deutschnofen, Schwarzenbach 2, Tel. 04 71/61 65 37, www.pfoesl.it ).
Restaurants in South Tyrol: Delicious food
At 1240 meters you can sit in the gothic wooden room with white-laid tables and enjoy dishes prepared from our own beef, cereals and vegetables, such as Jungrinds goulash with dumplings (16,50 Euro). A large selection of South Tyrolean wines is also served by the glass. Those who shy away from the ride through the dense spruce forest will stay overnight in one of the pretty, simple rooms. DZ / F from 90 Euro (Bruneck, Amaten 1, Tel. 04 74/55 99 77, www.oberraut.it ).
9. Gelateria Pradetto
A trip to Brixen without an ice cream from “Pradetto”? Unthinkable! There are only about a dozen varieties, but they are some of the best I’ve eaten ice cream: strawberry is for kneeling, but also the rum raisins in “Malaga” and the intense chocolate ice cream have addictive potential. No wonder that usually a snake stands in front of the tiny shop. All varieties are made from fresh milk without dyes, artificial flavors or stabilizers, which is why the balls melt rather quickly. So you should not order too much … Better to come back! (Brixen, Great Arbors 1)
High above Algund and the Adige Valley lies Oberplars. For lowland people, the drive up here, over steep streets between narrow walls, already a little adventure. But it’s worth it – you can hardly sit in it more snugly than in the vine-covered arbor of the “Schnalshuberhof” (although the listed Fichtenstube is also very cozy!). The Pinggera family serves their own wine and home-made apricot schnapps for the farm fare, from lettuce to white cabbage for (really sensational!) Sauerkraut and asparagus from our own garden. There are Schlutzkrapfen, something like the South Tyrolean ravioli, and homemade dumplings , plus a goulash (16 euros), which is second to none. Absolutely book! (Algund, Oberplars 2, Tel. 04 73/44 73 24)
11. Miil / Kränzelgärten
Franz Graf Pfeil has extended his award-winning winery Kränzelhof to the Kränzelgärten and the gourmet restaurant “Miil”. The former are a fantastically planted 20,000-square-meter complex, seven gardens full of old trees, fragrant flowers and modern art installations, as well as several labyrinths and mazes (admission 8 euros). In “Miil”, the old mill, Othmar Raich delights his guests with the best of the region – interpreted in a very modern way. The menu is rewritten daily according to the market situation: main dishes like “Passeirer Kitz” filled with wild garlic and asparagus are available from 18 Euro, the multi-course tasting menu for 75 Euro. After that I would have liked to get lost in the labyrinth for a few hours next door, hoping to eat again (Tscherms, Gampenstr. 1, Tel. 04 73/56 37 33, www.miil.it ).
12. Tschötsch Alm
The Schlern is considered a mythical mountain in South Tyrol, for me, his sight has something uplifting. Therefore, I love the Alpe di Siusi, with 57 square kilometers, the largest mountain in Europe: nowhere is the Schlern better in view than from here, and even if it is quite touristy around the cable car Compatsch, are the lush wildflower meadows, you already after reached short hikes, pure idyll. And last but not least there are wonderful huts on the Alpe di Siusi, for example the new “Tschötsch Alm”: with wood and rough stone, the Jaider family has perfectly realized the current Alpine chic – and the food is delicious: whether risotto with mountain pine and deer salami (11 , 50 Euro) or freshly made buckwheat dumplings with two kinds of cabbage (11,50) up to à la minute prepared potato dumplings with nougat (about 7 Euro). And the Schlern view could not be better (Alpe di Siusi, Puflatsch, about 10 minutes ascent from the cable car Compatsch, Tel. 320/066 14 25 www.tschoetschalm.com ).
13. Gostner Schwaige
The classic among the gourmet mountain huts, but so beautiful that I still want to recommend it to anyone who has not been there yet (everyone else will come back anyway …). Franz Mulser, who has learned at the Michelin-starred restaurant “Tantris” in Munich, stands here in Krachlederner and Trachtenhemd in the tiny kitchen and cooks deliciously-refined home-style food such as ossobuco of suckling pig (about 22 euros) or caramelized Kaiserschmarrn with meadow flowers (about 15 Euro). And the place on the flourishing slope, between cow pasture and children’s playground is also great (Alpe di Siusi, Saltriastr. 13, about 20 minutes walk from the cable car Compatsch, Tel. 347/836 81 54, www.aussergost.com ).
14. Thaler Bar
What a casual place for an icy Aperol Spritz in the afternoon! The “Thaler Bar” is located on the top floor of the Bolzano perfumery department store Thaler – and the view over the rooftops of the city and the cathedral is very big cinema (Bolzano, Lauben 69, www.thaler.bz.it ).
15. Berghütte Oberholz
In fact, I’ve never seen a more spectacular one! In the middle of the World Heritage Dolomites, at 2096 meters, three pointed picture windows protrude like small larch logs into the hillside, but most of the building is built into the mountain so that it hardly bothers in the landscape. In the interior, which follows the window form with its innumerable struts of spruce wood and is subdivided into room-like niches, one sits wonderfully airily. Nevertheless, the places in the front row that make you feel like you’re on a picnic area on a slope are, of course, the most beautiful. There is also a large panoramic terrace, and the food (eg risotto of the Obereggen mountain pine with buffalo mozzarella and smoked beef, 12.50 euros) is excellent. Almost a pity that here at the foot of the Latemar, there are so many great hiking trails. I could have stayed well all day! (Obereggen, a short walk from the mountain station of the chairlift “Oberholz”, but you can also hike up from Obereggen, Tel. 04 71/61 82 99, www.oberholz.com )
16. Golden grape
Local wines, steaks and burgers (from 10 Euro) in fancy Alpenchic. The “Golden Grape” in Tramin is also a hotspot in the south because of the delicious smell that the brand new charcoal grill spreads. And promised: it tastes as good as it smells (Tramin, Julius-von-Payer-Str. 2, Tel. 04 71/86 01 64, www.goldene-traube.it ).
Shopping in South Tyrol: That’s only here!
There are filigree bouquets and probably the best tartlets, pralines and macarons in South Tyrol – like precious jewelery displayed in puristic showcases. For patissier Andreas Acherer and his girlfriend, florist Barbara Strondl, the combination of their two trades was a logical combination: both make people happy – which also applies to the traditional baked goods (croissants, yeast cakes and biscuits), which Acherer offers for daily needs (Bruneck , Stadtgasse 8, www.acherer.com ).
18. Pur South Tyrol
If I could only enter a single store during a holiday in South Tyrol, this would be it. All products are from the region, of the highest quality and wonderfully simple packed: bacon, cheese, fruits and vegetables, butter, jam, bread, wine, pasta, cosmetics, books, souvenirs and gifts – I would like to buy everything! The shops – in Bolzano, Brunico and Lana there are smaller branches – are generously designed, the goods are stored on shelves in boxes of light apple wood. A small bistro is required at all locations (Meran, Freiheitsstr. 35, www.pursuedtirol.com ).
Oh, handbags! The ones that Sylvia Pichler produces for her label “Zilla” are available in London, New York and Tokyo – but also from local pride in a number of hip South Tyrolean boutiques and, of course, in the Bozener parent company. Unusual looks, z. Creases on huge shoppers, laminated leather for handbags or a glittering foil made of steel for purse, determine the collection. The perfect souvenir to give yourself (Bozen, Edisonstr. 15, www.zilla.it ).
20th Paradeis Alois Lageder
A fabulous place for those who love wine and art! The winemaker Alois Lageder is one of the most important South Tyrolean, biodynamic pre- and art-loving lateral thinker. In the wonderfully light winery you can admire the order installations of contemporary greats such as Rosemarie Trockel and Matt Mullican, and you can hear how the best red wines are matured during the maturation of an extremely slow version of Bach’s “Sixth Brandenburg Concerto”. The Vineria “Paradeis” is also part of the estate, situated in the idyllic courtyard of the Renaissance Palazzo “Casòn Hirschprunn”, where it smells of lemon and jasmine. There you can eat at a snack, taste the wines extensively – and of course buy. And who ever bi? Here, traveling to the extreme south of South Tyrol, the best thing to do is to plan a guided tour through the cellars. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at 2.30 pm (Margreid, Casón Hirschprunn Str. 1, Tel. 04 71/80 95 80, www.aloislageder.eu )
Discovering South Tyrol: Experiencing something new every day
21. Bergbauwelt Schneeberg
800 years ago at the top end of the Ridnauntal, at least 2,000 meters above sea level, lead and silver were mined, later zinc as well. In 1985, the mine was closed and soon afterwards made accessible to visitors, who can visit here a completely preserved and, in principle, functioning works. I love such industrial monuments: in miner’s protective clothing we enter the tunnels where real equipment is put into operation. The hard work, the miners have done here in the dark, with stench and deafening noise, is perfectly understandable. Again out in the light, children are allowed to hunt for ore or sieve small semi-precious stones from a stream. And I buy myself in the shop a pretty and absolutely affordable garnet chain – made of stones, which are found in the streams of the Ridnauntals very regularly. Guided tours from 10 Euro (Ridnaun, Maiern 48, www.bergbaumuseum.it ).
22. Partschinser Wasserfall
Here I was as a little girl with my grandmother, and until today I can stand for hours at the most beautiful waterfall in South Tyrol, watching and listening: the spray, the roaring roar, the small rainbow that form when the light is broken in myriads of fine water droplets. The target stream plunges 97 meters into the depths, the snowmelt in early summer is around 10 000 liters.
I am always pleased that the bishop of Chur, Heinrich von Montfort, had his castle built 750 years ago, far from today’s tourist centers. Because it is, secretly located in the Matschertal, until today a kind of insider tip, although it could come from a fairy tale film: towers, pinnacles, red and white shutters. Since 1504 she belongs to the Count of Trapp, who still live there in summer. Fortunately, they let visitors in, especially the armory with more than 50 fully preserved armor, a helmeted horse, battle axes and crossbows is a show! Admission 10 Euro (Schluderns, Churburg 1, www .churburg.com code).
What do the new subway station at Ground Zero in New York, the Schiller monument at Dresden’s Albertplatz and the portal of Schloss Tirol have in common? They were all built from Laas marble. The pure white, fine-grained rock has made the small town in the Vinschgau world famous. In Laas itself, even the sidewalks are marble paved – but not because of ostentatiousness, but because the small stones were left for this, as were ordered more than 80 000 marble crosses for US military cemeteries after the Second World War. To date, the Laas marble is mined in two fractions, partly over, partly underground; the highest tunnel is at 2228 meters altitude. For safety reasons, they can not be visited, but in summer there are guided tours of the village, the school of stone working and the marble factory several times a week ( www.marmorfuehrung.com ).
25. Trauttmansdorff Castle
The botanical gardens of the castle above Merano are the most beautiful in Italy, if not in Europe. At least they are the most beautiful I have ever seen. More than 80 landscapes are shown on twelve hectares in the finest hillside location with a dream view towards Vinschgau: lotus flowers grow here as well as desert cacti, fragrant flowers and the northernmost olive grove in Italy. If possible, plan a whole day for the visit, because the castle, a former holiday residence of Empress Sisi, houses the equally entertaining and informative “Touriseum”, which leads with much irony through South Tyrol’s 200 years of tourism history. Admission 14 Euro (Meran, St. Valentinstr 51a, www.trauttmansdorff.it , www.touriseum.it ).
26. Völser Weiher
Here Arthur Schnitzler spent many summers. The Viennese playwright liked to sit on the bank and look at the Schlern, which stands like an anthracite glittering monolith over the lake. Apparently Schnitzler has never bathed here – which, if true, would have been a capital mistake. The water is as soft as it can be only a bog lake, around it are dark fir trees, dragonflies are buzzing and despite numerous (mostly local) bathers bloom every summer, the water lilies. A mountain stream feeds the pond, which is why it is pleasantly fresh even in the heat of the day. For me, there is nothing better than sitting on one of the large boardwalks on hot afternoons, with a “Hugo” from the small kiosk in hand, watching the village youth compete in shows, and then three or four big laps around the tiny one Floating Pond Island.
27th Runkelstein Castle
Perched high on a rock at the entrance to the Sarntal, the castle is enthroned with a moat, a fall gate, battlements and battlements. Inside, it houses the largest secular fresco cycle in the world, dating from the Middle Ages – which is why Runkelstein is also called “Bilderburg”. There are knight tournaments, bear hunts and frivolous festivals. In addition, as a kind of medieval black and white comic, the love story of Tristan and Isolde. Admission 8 Euro (Bolzano, St. Anton 15, www.runkelstein.info ).
28th South Tyrol Museum of Archeology
The most famous South Tyrolean in the world, even before mountaineering legends Reinhold Messner and Luis Trenker is “Ötzi”, the man from the ice. Here he is resting in a cold room, looking through a small window made of bulletproof glass. Even on my third visit, I found the Archaeological Museum, whose exhibition is always adapted to the latest developments in Ötzi research, still very interesting. Not because of the mummy itself, but because of her equipment, which tells us so much about life in the Stone Age. This time I was allowed to take part in a guided tour with my sons. While they were mainly interested in Ötzi’s weapons, I learned a lot about nutrition and medicine from 5,300 years ago and was very proud when, after many fruitless attempts, I finally managed to produce a small flame with flint and tinder sponge (Bolzano, Museumstr. 43, www.iceman.it < /a>).
29. MMM Firmian
Bronze temples from Nepal and Tibet as well as exhibits from the history of alpinism, in a more than a 1000-year-old Tyrolean castle whose ruin was made possible again thanks to clever contemporary architecture , That is – in a nutshell – the “Messner Mountain Museum Firmian” at Sigmundskron Castle, with which Reinhold Messner launched his MMM project. Today there are five more spectacular locations, but for those who only want to visit one, I recommend them. The atmosphere up here, high above the Adige is magical, and children can play to their heart’s content in the huge castle complex. In addition, Sigmundskron is one of the heartbeat of the South Tyrol Autonomy Movement: Here on November 17, 1957, almost 35,000 people gathered and chanted “Los von Trient!”. Also there is a small exhibition, which makes me grateful that the “South Tyrol problem” was solved so exemplary for the benefit of all. Admission 12 Euro (Bolzano, Sigmundskronerstrasse 53, www.messner-mountainmuseum.it code).
“If the geological history were one year old, the Bletterbach gorge would have been between December 9 and 11. And the human being would have arrived at 6 pm on New Year’s Eve,” the guide explains before we pass by red porphyry walls, descend into the gorge. Since the last ice age 15,000 years ago, the brook underneath the Weisshorn has dug a length of eight kilometers up to 400 meters into the landscape, exposing the structure of the layers of earth and rock. During our hike, we marvel at what has happened over the course of 280 million years: volcanic rock, snow-white dolomite, fossilized seabed, tons of fossils and dinosaur traces. We climb awe over boulders for two hours before climbing up a steep path at the end of the gorge and enjoying delicious Kasnocken (8 Euro) on the “Laneralm”. Finally, make a fool of yourself (Aldein, Lerch 40, www.bletterbach.info ).
Italy has the country code 00 39. The first 0 of the area code remains even when calling from the Receive foreign countries.
More information can be found at www.suedtirol.info
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Altstadt-Adresse: Staying in the middle of Bolzano - in the "Residence Fink" (Tip 6)
Location for the sole The "Hotel Pfösl" includes three brand new forest chalets on the hillside (Tip 7)
Brixen has the best ice cream in the world (Tip 9)
The Kränzelgärten in Tscherms are full of art and surprises. And of course there are plants too (Tip 11)
Oh! From the cable car to the "Tschötsch Alm" it only takes ten minutes (Tip 12)
(R) view The "Oberholz hut" at the Latemar was built in the mountain - with large windows (tip 15)
Sweet "Once everything, please!" Would you like to order at Acherers Patisserie in Bruneck? The tartlets look so appetizing (Tip 17)
The Völser Weiher is pleasantly fresh even when it is very hot (Tip 26)
Burgenland Runkelstein Castle is picturesquely situated at the entrance of the Sarntal (Tip 27)